Sommelier - Part Two: 25 More Tasting Notes
מאת: Daniel Rogov
| November 2008 |
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Sagol, Cabernet Sauvignon, Single Vineyard, 2007: Although Barry Saslove's name appears nowhere on this wine, it carries his winemaker's signature in every way. Oak-aged for six months, and thus reflecting gently spicy wood and soft tannins, a soft but concentrated wine showing generous black fruits, those balanced well by hints of spices and tobacco all coming to a long finish on which you will find notes of dark chocolate and anise creeping comfortably in. A fine example to demonstrate why there need be no contradiction whatever between the rules of kashrut and the making of fine wine. Enjoyable now but best 2009-2012. Score 90. K (Tasted 21 Nov 2008)
Ginaton, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006: Dark ruby towards garnet, medium- to full-bodied, with soft tannins and a hint of sawdust on the nose. Opens to show currant and berry fruits. A good entry-level wine. Score 84. (Re-tasted 17 Nov 2008)
Ginaton, Merlot, 2005: Showing much as at an earlier tasting, this medium-bodied wine shows generous, spicy and vanilla-rich oak with soft tannins rising on the finish.. Opens slowly to reveal plum, blackberries and black cherry fruits that linger nicely. Not complex but easy to drink. Drink now. Score 85. (Re-tasted 17 Nov 2008)
Mond, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2006: Oak-aged in barriques for 16 months, showing dark garnet, full-bodied and with generous wood and firm tannins starting to integrate with black currant and wild berry fruits, those on a background of spices and licorice. Best 2010–2012. Score 87. K (Re-tasted 17 Nov 2008)
Mond, Merlot, Reserve, 2005: Dark garnet, medium-bodied, with silky tannins and showing a generous array of red and black berries and cassis. Marred somewhat by a too-generous oak impact. Drink now. Score 84. K (Re-tasted 17 Nov 2008)
Ben Hanna, Mediterraneo, 2005: Deep, brooding garnet in color, full-bodied, with still-firm tannins and generous spicy wood waiting to settle down, but showing fine balance and simply needing a bit of time. A blend of Grenache, Petit Verdot, Syrah and Cabernet Franc (50%, 33%, 12% and 5% respectively), aged in French oak for 22 months, opening to show a generous mouthful of black cherry, dried raspberries, eucalyptus and cinnamon. Drink now–2011. Score 91. (Re-tasted 17 Nov 2008)
Ben Hanna, Cabernet Franc, La Mariée, 2005: Broad, dense and concentrated, yet caressing and not at all heavy. Opens with generous raspberries and dried currants highlighted by gentle black and red chili peppers. Moves on to plum and floral aromas and flavors with soft tannins rising on the long, spicy and fruit-rich finish. Best yet from the winery. Best 2008–2011. Score 91. (Re-tasted 17 Nov 2008)
Anatot, Merlot-Shiraz, Shani, 2005: Medium- full-bodied, with gripping tannins that part slowly to reveal berries and plums on a lightly spicy background. Drink now. Score 82. (Tasted 17 Nov 2008)
Anatot, Shiraz-Cabernet Sauvignon, Shani, 2005: Ruby towards garnet, medium-bodied, with chunky tannins and a few black fruits. A simple country-style wine that falls somewhat flat on the palate. Drink now. Score 80. (Tasted 17 Nov 2008)
Ben Zimra, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2007: Dark and deep, medium to full-bodied with good concentration. Oak-aged for 9 months, somewhat rustic with a touch of heat on the finish, but showing appealing currant, cherry and berry fruits with hints of anise and spring flowers. Drink now-2010. Score 83. (Re-tasted 17 Nov 2008)
Ben Zimra, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2006: Smooth, rich and round. Well balanced with currant, plum and black cherry fruits and a generous spicy overlay from the oak in which it aged for 14 months.. Turns dry and picks up a strong cedar wood note on the finish. Drink now. Score 85. (Re-tasted 17 Nov 2008)
Assaf, 4 Seasons, 2007: A blend of Pinotage, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc and, as unlikely as that sounds, a fine combination, indeed unusual for Israel but not uncommon in South Africa. Reflecting its eight months in oak with light spices and soft, gently caressing tannins, a medium- to full-bodied and round wine, with generous blueberry, fig and licorice notes coming together nicely and lingering comfortably on the palate with a hint of cedar wood rising on the finish. Drink now-2010. Score 89. (Tasted 17 Nov 2008)
Assaf, Shiraz, 2006: Blended with 3% Cabernet Sauvignon and oak-aged for 14 months, shows a distinctly Shiraz nose of spicy wood, plums and blackberries, all with a hint of saddle leather. Dark garnet towards royal purple, with just the right notes of spicy wood and fine balance between still firm tannins and fruits. Concentrated and intense but with a distinct touch of elegance and a long finish. Best 2009-2012. Score 90. (Re-tasted 17 Nov 2008)
Assaf, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2006: Dark garnet towards royal purple, full-bodied and with fine balance and structure that bode well for the future. On the nose and palate hints of sweet cedar followed by blackcurrant, purple plum and blackberry fruits, those supported nicely by hints of minted dark chocolate. Approachable and enjoyable now but best 2009-2013. Score 90. (Re-tasted 17 Nov 2008)
Mony, Merlot, 2007: Dark ruby, medium-bodied, with soft, somewhat flabby tannins and skimpy berry and black cherry fruits. A simple country-style wine. Drink now. Score 80. K (Tasted 17 Nov 2008)
Mony, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2007: Garnet towards purple in color, light- to medium-bodied, with soft tannins and a few red fruits. A simple country-style wine with a detracting hint of barnyard aromas. Drink up. Score 79. K (Tasted 17 Nov 2008)
Mony, Merlot, Reserve, 2005: Dark ruby towards garnet in color, medium- to full-bodied, showing spicy wood and a somewhat medicinal aroma. Cherrry and raspberry fruits struggle to make themselves felt through very generous earthy-herbal and tobacco notes. Drink now. Score 81. K (Re-tasted 17 Nov 2008)
Mony, Shiraz, Reserve, 2005: Showing softer and less tannic than at earlier tastings. Dark royal purple in color, with somewhat skimpy red fruits and a not appealing barnyard aroma that lingers from first attack to finish. Drink up. Score 78. K (Re-tasted 17 Nov 2008)
Mony, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2005: Much as at earlier tastings. Dark ruby toward brick-red, medium to full-bodied, with a hint of barnyard aromas along with firm tannins and generous spicy wood that seem not to want to yield and hide the black fruits that are underneath. Drink up. Score 78. K
Gvaot, Chardonnay-Cabernet, Gofna, 2007: Medium- to full-bodied, a white wine with a hint of tannins, this blend of 80% Chardonnay and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, the red grapes with very short skin contact. Fie acidity balances those tannins and shows appealing citrus, pear and green apple fruits, those matched nicely by a hint of berries that plays on the palate. Call this one "unusual" or "odd" as you like, but an appealing and complex wine that will fascinate. Whether it will woo or not is another store altogether. Drink now-2009. Score 87. K (Re-tasted 18 Nov 2008)
Gvaot, Merlot, Herodion, 2007 (Advance Tasting): Blended with 10% Cabernet Sauvigjon, oak-aged for 12 months, medium- to full-bodied, with soft, caressing tannins and appealing blackcurrant and black cherry fruits, a generous and near-elegant wine with a long licorice-hinted finish. Best 2009-2011. Score 88. K (Tasted 18 Nov 2008)
Gvaot, Cabernet Sauvigon, Herodion, 2007: Reflecting its 12 months in barriques with gentle spicy oak and medium- to full-bodied red, with soft tannins and a round, fruity personality. On the noise and palate appealing black fruits, spices and hint of Oriental spices, all lingering nicely, the fruits and tannins rising nicely on a long and mouth-filling finish Drink now-2011. Score 88. K (Tasted 18 Nov 2008)
Gvaot, Cabernet Franc, Gofna Reserve, 2007 (Advance Tasting): As predicted at an early tasting. the best yet from this winery. Medium- to full-bodied, opening with notes of freshly turned earth and loam, those opening to reveal black and blue berries along with spicy and toasty oak notes. Firm tannins but with fine balance and structure, a simultaneously muscular and elegant wine. Approachable now but best from 2010. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 18 Nov 2008)
Gvaot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Single Vineyard, Har'El, 2007 (Barrel Tasting): New World Cabernet, full-bodied, with caressing tannins and forward blackberry and blackcurrant fruits, those supported by generous hints of spices and sweet Mediterranean herbs, all leading to a dark chocolate and tobacco finish. Best 2010-2013, perhaps longer. Tentative Score 88-90. K (Re-tasted 18 Nov 2008)
Gvaot, Merlot, Reserve, 2006: Showing much as at an earlier tasting. Dark garnet toward royal-purple, medium to full-bodied with gently mouth-coating tannins. Blended with 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and oak-aged for 14 months, opens to reveal blueberry and black cherry fruits on a background of roasted chestnuts and licorice. Long and generous. Drink now–2011. Score 89. K